The Cellar

Special thanks to Macalister Mansion for extending this food review invitation.

Macalister Mansion is a colonial-era structure that has been standing magnificently for more than a hundred years. Located at Macalister Road (Jalan Macalister), this building has been renovated as a luxurious boutique hotel with 8 rooms on the upper floor. Macalister Mansion retains most of its original architecture to present guests with a feeling of classical nostalgia.

There are several restaurants in Macalister Mansion. The two main ones are Living Room and Dining Room; I had the privilege of covering the latter last year. Located between the two eateries is The Cellar. Located at the west wing, The Cellar is furnished with a climate-controlled wine cellar. Macalister Mansion maintains a collection of around 300 wines labels from all around the world.

Unlike the Living Room, The Cellar sets a dimmer tone to cater to nightlife clientele. Leather seats next to the mock fireplace allow customers to mingle around in a relaxing ambience. In addition, a private room next to the courtyard allows customers to wine and dine in a more secluded setting.

Macalister Mansion's Izakaya Weekends is held at The Cellar every Friday and Saturday between 7:00pm and 11:00pm. Similar to izakaya restaurants (居酒屋) in Japan, dishes are prepared in small portions as they are meant to go with alcohol.

At the Cellar, food is prepared at the bar in view of diners. But unlike traditional Japanese izakaya, the selections here are Western in nature. Food is presented in tapas portions to allow diners to sample a wider variety of delicacies throughout the evening. The 15 or so dishes are matched with an approximately same number of cocktails and shooters.

Iberico Pork, Soya, Sweetcorn (RM75.00) uses the shoulder of Iberian pig from Spain. The dark-skinned swine is prized for its exquisite, high quality meat. The pork is marinated with soy sauce, mirin, garlic oil, white pepper and thyme. Using sous-vide, the pork shoulder is cooked gently and uniformly.

The juicy slab of pork is cut into slices of half inch thickness, and then presented on a wooden serving tray. The accompanying ponzu (ポン酢) is based on soy sauce and reduced jus from the pork itself. Meanwhile, the natural sweetness of caramelized corn is combined with soy reduction to serve as counterbalance to savory Iberico pork.

As for seafood, the recommended dish is Salmon, Burnt Mayonnaise, Potato (RM60.00). Fresh salmon fillet is marinated in mayonnaise that was smoked with hickory and oak. Then, the fillet is torched on both sides until the mayonnaise coating caramelizes and turns brown.

Accompanying salmon fillet are several pieces of potato confit. Considering the unpleasant smokiness that comes with deep-frying, using potato confit is a more sensible choice. Finally, the salmon dish is garnished with dill and parsley.

Charred Tomato, Fennel, Chorizo (RM25.00) is yet another interesting delicacy at The Cellar. Slices of levain bread are first toasted with olive oil, and then spread with tomato ragout that consists of chopped tomato, tomato coulis and other vegetables. The stack is followed by thin slices of chorizo (Spanish pork sausage), halved cherry tomatoes and sliced fennel.

After giving a sprinkle of truffle oil, the bruschetta is torched to impart a touch of toastiness. The overall taste is gracefully balanced as the saltiness of chorizo is evened out by levain and tomatoes.

One of my favorite dishes this evening is the Squid, Salted Duck Egg, Coriander (RM55.00). The squid is blanched beforehand to prevent it from turning too rubbery. Next, squid rings are coated with batter made from tempura flour, salted duck egg yolks and turmeric. After deep-frying, the rings are then sautéed with onions and curry leaves.

Squid is sandwiched between halved mantou (馒头) buns alongside iceberg lettuce, coriander and tartar sauce. Thanks to brief blanching in the beginning, the squid attains tender texture that prevents the burger stack from falling apart while being eaten.

As for desserts, the Chef's Choice Of The Day (RM35.00) is Coffee Soufflé. Made from white coffee, egg and whipped cream, the soufflé is chilled in the freezer to allow it to set. When ready to serve, cocoa powder, mascarpone mousse (a foam made from mascarpone cheese, whipped cream and amaretto liquor using an espuma gun) and coffee-flavored meringue crisps are added on top. The dessert is then garnished with microgreens.

Meanwhile for cocktails, the Cosmopolitan (RM33.00) is prepared from Smirnoff vodka, Cointreau triple sec, lime juice and cranberry juice. Meanwhile, Strawberry Cooling (RM30.00) consists of a mixture of vodka, strawberry syrup and soda.

Name: The Cellar
Address: 228, Jalan Macalister, 10400 George Town, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 04-228-3888
Business hours: 5:00pm-1:00am (Sunday-Thursday), 5:00pm-2:00am (Friday-Saturday)
Website: http://www.macalistermansion.com/thecellar.html
Coordinates: 5.41949 N, 100.31892 E
Directions: Macalister Mansion is located on the one-way stretch of Macalister Road (Jalan Macalister), after Loh Guan Lye Specialists Centre and also on the left side of the road. The Cellar is located on the west wing of the mansion. Parking is available within the mansion's spacious compound.

Franco

Special thanks to Alora Hotel for extending this food review invitation.

Update: This business has ceased its operations.

Alora Hotel Penang is a hotel in Bayan Point. In case this building looks familiar, it was formerly a serviced apartment called B-suite. Under new owners, this 19-floor building has been converted to a hotel and is being upgraded in phases. There are 304 rooms in total, each room having an astounding 500 square feet of floor space!

Quite recently, the hotel has opened several eateries at the Ground Floor: Franco, Ichiban The Izakaya and Chop Chin Hin Hardware Cafe. While some of these brands are franchises, the restaurants are operated by the hotel itself. My visit today is aimed at Franco, a casual dining restaurant which specializes in fusion cuisine.

With warm yellow lights, unique floor tiling and red-and-black color scheme, Franco presents a family-friendly dining atmosphere. Wooden tables and steel chairs are nearly arranged around the dining area. Although Franco has over a dozen outlets across the country, this is the only outlet in Penang so far.

Franco French Toast (RM17.80) is one of the most popular dishes here. The toast is made from a special type of bread called "Queen Bread", which is thoroughly dipped in beaten eggs. The bread is pan-fried and then served stacked on top one another in a warm iron pan. The toast is topped with whipped cream and icing sugar, while maple syrup is provided separately. The fluffy nature of the bread and savory butter-like savoriness make this dish very agreeable with my palate.

Orijinaru Soufflé Pancake (オリジナルスフレパンケーキ, RM13.80) is made to order and requires 20 minutes to prepare from scratch. This dish is the assimilation of traditional French pastry with elements of Japanese baking techniques. As soon as the pancake is served, sweet-smelling aroma permeates the immediate vicinity, turning over several heads in the process.

The pancake is quite thick and is served warm. Both facts explain why the center of the pancake feels moist. The pastry appears fluffy yet not too crumbly to an extent where it flakes off. Indeed, the word "soufflé" means "to puff" in French. The pancake best enjoyed in small bites and especially with some maple syrup. Overall, I think this is a commendable dish and is best shared around the table.

The word "yūmeina" means "famous" in Japanese, so the fact that Spaghetti Yūmeina (有名なスパゲッティ, RM28.80) is the bestseller in Franco should not come as a surprise. Off the bat, I am immediately impressed with the enormous serving size. Also included in this oversized dish are smoked chicken ham, shimeji mushrooms, fresh tomatoes, eggplant, baby spinach, cabbage, onion and sesame seeds.

Spaghetti is cooked al dente and complements harmoniously with the broth. All ingredients are brought together in a seamless manner through a special blend of broth based on soy sauce. The broth is water-based, which explains why the pasta does not feel greasy at all. A poached egg (温泉卵) takes the center stage, boasting its solidified albumen which envelopes a runny yolk.

Next, Berries Cheesecake Decadent Parfait (RM15.80) is a French frozen dessert made from alternating layers of soft serve vanilla ice cream and Philadelphia cream cheese. Graham crackers provide the much-needed crispiness, while fresh blueberries and strawberries punctuate the dessert with fruity sourness. Once again, this serving of parfait is significantly larger than average ones sold in other restaurants or shopping mall kiosks.

Iced Matcha Latte With Matcha Softee (RM14.80) is a matcha-lover's dream come true. Served in a stoneware cup similar to Japanese tea cups, the drink is infused with mild, satisfying bitterness of ground tea leaves. Meanwhile, soft serve matcha ice cream towers above the rim of the cup. If you are a matcha-lover and need to choose between a drink and an ice cream, why not pick both?

Overall, Franco impresses me with its large serving size, well-balanced flavoring and creative fusion gourmet. Besides the à la carte menu, the restaurant also offers 3-course lunch (from RM19.90) and 4-course dinner (RM35.90) every day. It is also interesting to note that Franco is a pork-free restaurant and does not serve alcohol.

Name: Franco
Address: Alora Hotel Penang, 19, Medan Kampung Relau, 11900 Bayan Lepas, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 04-646-7777
Business hours: 12:00pm-11:00pm
Website: http://www.alorahotel.com
Coordinates: 5.33366 N, 100.29441 E
Directions: Alora Hotel is a 19-floor building in Bayan Point. Franco is located on the Ground Floor and next to the hotel lobby. Basement parking is accessible from the west side of the hotel. The parking fee is RM1.00 per hour.

43 Café

Special thanks to 43 Café for extending this food review invitation.

Update: This business has ceased its operations.

43 Café is a house-cum-eatery near the Sungai Dua entrance of USM. This award-winning eatery started as one of Penang's pioneers of pork burgers in 2013, but has since migrated to fusion cuisine. According to the founder, the restaurant strives to use natural ingredients in its food preparation. For example, no MSG is added to the food.

The meal starts with Sesame Salad (RM8.50) as appetizer. Romaine lettuce, red cabbage and julienned carrots are dressed with roasted sesame dressing. Oat Krunch cracker crumbs are added to provide some crisp.

Inspired by an egg recipe popularized by students of Chung Ling High School, the Egg Pecah Toast (RM3.50) takes advantage of the runny state of an egg, served over a slice of toasted bread. The egg is seasoned with chili paste and scallions.

Nom Nom Nom is one of my favorite dishes tonight. Each skewer contains a lean cut of fresh pork, marinated with lemongrass sauce to give exceptionally succulent flavors. This dish is priced at RM1.20 per skewer and has minimum order of 5 skewers.

Fork Pork Blanket (RM18.00) is the remnant of the original signature dish. A lovely slice of pork shoulder is dry-rubbed and slow-cooked for 8 hours to allow its flavors to develop fully. The patty is sandwiched by two halves of a sesame bun. Also included in the burger are bacon strips, cherry tomatoes, onion rings and lettuce leaves.

Inspired by the Ohioan meat sauce for hot dogs and spaghetti, the Cincinnati Chili Pork Pasta (RM19.80) uses bell peppers in lieu of chili peppers to suit the local palate. Personally, I would have preferred chili peppers in line with the original American recipe. Having said so, the use of corkscrew-shaped fusilli allows seasoning to penetrate the pasta more thoroughly. A raw egg on top serves to form thick emulsion when mixed with pasta thoroughly.

Next, Smoked Duck Pasta (RM24.80) uses a special infusion of ceps and balsamic vinaigrette to impart appetizing flavors to the pasta. Al dente spaghetti is further paired with gratifying slices of smoked duck and a raw egg yolk. This dish is noticeably drier than the previous one, but its delightful appeal allows it to stand in its own right.

Moving on, Sous-Vide Chicken Deluxe (RM25.80) features an entire piece of chicken breast, cooked in an airtight plastic bag and immersed in a water bath of precisely 60^oC. To compensate for significantly lower temperature often used to cook chicken, sous-vide method requires several hours of heating such that chicken tissues become cooked without disintegrating. As a result, the chicken retains most of its jus, which explains its "wetter" appearance when cut.

The chicken is dressed with onion sauce of creamy consistency, which I think is on the saltier side but is necessary to season the inner sections of the chicken. Butterfly cut is not used so that the chicken breast keeps its moisture intact. A slice of cheese is placed on top, though I think I would have preferred without it. This dish is served with potato salad and garden greens on the side. Although the texture of chicken may alienate some, I think it is an interesting experience for a change.

The next delicacy is Dry-Aged Pork Steak (RM28.80). The pork steak is grilled to perfection, then served alongside homemade garlic sauce. Although the pork is extremely succulent, the creamy garlic sauce also deserves due recognition in the overall appeal. Meanwhile, potato salad and garden greens are served on the side.

Dry-aging, also called hanging, is a process in which meat is hung in an environment of controlled temperature and humidity. During this process, lactic acid produced during the meat's anaerobic state breaks down protein in the muscle tissues, releasing amino acids which improve savoriness of the meat. During the process, the pork shrinks by 30% as it loses moisture to the atmosphere.

As for beverage, Tomato Plum Juice (RM5.00) is one of the recommended ones at 43 Café. Made from fresh tomatoes, the juice appears separated due to "cold breaking". Unlike commercially-canned tomato juice, slower cooking process allows enzymes to break down cellular walls, therefore separating the watery and thicker contents of the fruit. Apart from aesthetic differences, separated and homogeneous tomato juice do not have noticeably different taste.

Made from raw ginger, pandan juice and red dates, Ginger Tea (RM4.00) is a drink of extremes. On one hand, some people are immediately turned away by its intensely pungent aftertaste. On the other hand, others derive pleasure from the warming sensation on the palate. I think the iced version is a nice compromise as its icy state helps to negate some pungency.

One of 43 Café's specialties is its Homemade Ice Scream. Made from milk, cream, sugar and eggs, the ice cream contains neither emulsifier nor coloring. The absence of emulsifier makes ice cream melt rather quickly, which is why it has to be refrozen in cups after scooping. As the overrun (air content) is only 20%-30%, the ice cream is very compact. 43 Café has tens of ice cream flavors after several months of experimentation, but not all flavors are available every evening due to limited shelf life. The Homemade Ice Scream can be ordered by the cup or by the tub. In addition, 43 Café also supplies its ice cream to other restaurants such as Kizuna.

Today's flavors are Bailey's Irish Cream, Hazelnut Tea, Horlicks Maple Syrup, Organic Black Sesame, Purple Magic, Rich Chocolate and Coffee. It is recommended to consume the ice cream flavors in this order too. The restaurant suggests that after going through the sequence, it is advisable to redo the sequence with a pinch of salt (literally, no pun intended), then another round with light sprinkles of chili peppers. I believe the gastronomical appeal is similar to what I experienced at Salt & Straw in Portland. However, I feel that the American ice cream has creamier texture.

All in all, 43 Café takes advantage of its chef's sound knowledge on molecular gastronomy to produce a number of delectable fusion dishes. As the cooking techniques differ from mainstream culinary styles, it remains to be seen whether the food here strikes a chord with the general palate. Its Homemade Ice Scream, though likeable without additional qualifiers, should be explored with a pinch of salt (pun intended).

Name: 43 Café
Address: 43, Jalan Sungai Dua, 11700 Gelugor, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 016-430-7009
Business hours: 5:30pm-10:00pm
Website: https://www.facebook.com/43Cafe
Coordinates: 5.35315 N, 100.30391 E
Directions: From the Sungai Dua entrance of USM, turn left and immediately turn right. Turn left immediately and drive along the service road of Jalan Sungai Dua. 43 Café is the last unit of the first row of residential houses. Street parking is available along this service road.

Red Chopstick

Red Chopstick (红筷子) has been in this business for a long time. This variety-styled eatery at i-Avenue enjoys a steady stream of customers due to its appealing menu and convenient location.

The name of this restaurant refers to literally red chopsticks at each dining table. I am not sure whether the restaurant's name or usage of chopsticks comes first. It doesn't matter as long as the food is great.

Red Chopstick has been refurbished since my last visit. The menu has also expanded significantly, although its popular dishes such as nasi lemak and cendol remain available.

One of the most popular choice on the menu is Kampung Curry Chicken & Lor Bak (甘绑咖喱鸡+卤肉, RM9.90). The heap of white rice on banana leaf is flavored with blue petals of butterfly-pea flower (kembang telang), similar to the way nasi kerabu is prepared.

On the side, there is a piece of curry chicken, lor bak (卤肉), fried egg, spinach and prawn crackers. The chicken is slightly tough and lacking in flavor, but the rich curry gravy makes up for it. In addition, I enjoy the lor bak due to its savory taste.

For noodle, the bowl of Oyster Mee Suah Soup (蚝面线汤, RM7.90) is served with a handful of oysters, a couple of shrimps, sliced pork and vegetables. There are also fried onion and pork lard, but I feel that these ingredients are out of place in this noodle dish. Nevertheless, the overall flavor is acceptable.

For desserts, Red Chopstick is renowned for cendol, such as these bowls of Cendol Ice Special (特味煎堆, RM5.90). There are choices of either jackfruit or red beans. Both are nice choices, so it is a matter of personal preference.

The cendol is appealing for the use of attap chee (亚答子), which are fruits of nipa palm. Palm sugar (gula melaka) and evaporated milk are used to provide some flavor to shaved ice.

The cendol is sweetened in a nice, non-overpowering way which makes it very enjoyable. I really love the role that jackfruit plays here. It appears as if it were specially engineered for this dessert!

According to the friendly proprietor, an improved menu will be introduced soon, so stay tuned if you are a regular customer of Red Chopstick, or thinking of visiting soon.

Address: 1-1-5, Medan Kampung Relau 1, 11900 Bayan Lepas, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 016-440-3938
Business hours: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:00pm-9:30pm, closed on Wednesdays
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